Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Beating Our Retreat
On Monday, Dave and I jumped on a train up to York. Upon arrival, we grabbed some breakfast and headed over to the famous York Minster, with its amazing interior. We then walked some of the city walls, headed to the Richard III museum where we made up our own minds just who killed the princes in the tower, and trekked halfway out of town (or so it seemed) to our hostel, coming back in to do an interesting (if not very scary) ghost tour. The next day we discovered was Coronation Day (the anniversary of Queen Elizabeth's coranation) so we saw a 21 gun salute in the park, which was pretty cool. We then crashed on the grass a while for a lazy nap in the sunshine, before a spot of (book) shopping, dinner at the pub and a train back to London.
The following day was Origin I, which was being shown live at some of the Aussie bars, so we headed to (you guessed it) Temple Walkie. We arrived there at 10, and were joined by J, Nathan and a couple of others for kick off at 11, after which we lost track of time and before we knew it it was 7pm and time to go to Shakespeare's Globe to see "As You Like It" (very good performance).
Thursday night we headed to 'Beating Retreat' at the Horse Guards with Bec and J and a couple of others. This military display was originally used in a war when beating or sounding a retreat brought a halt to the days fighting, and as a spectacle was pretty cool.
Friday afternoon J, Bec, Dave and I headed out to Stansted for our flight to Amsterdam! We spent a great weekend discovering the delights of Amsterdam, and managed to fit in a bike ride out into the countryside, where we found no tulips but a windmill and a cheese and clog factory. Kitsch souvenirs galore!
Come Monday, Dave and I said a sad farewell to Bec, J and London, before boarding our flight out of Heathrow at 10.30pm, bound for Sydney via Hong Kong.
Some final pics below. We are back in rainy Sydney (what were we THINKING leaving a gorgeous London summer??) looking for work and adjusting to being back.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Norweigan Wonders
So to wrap up our trip we flew from Budapest up to Oslo, where we spent one night in the world's most expensive city (it really is). The following day, we caught the famous Oslo-Bergen train. It was, without peer, the best and most breathtaking train journey ever. The train is pretty nice and comfortable and has these huge windows on either side, perfect for viewing the amazing and spectacular scenery.
We stayed a night in Bergen before embarking on our Norway In A Nutshell tour. It's not a tour in the strictest sense of the word, you just buy all the tickets in one go as it includes a couple of trains, a boat and a bus. So first we backtracked a little, taking the train from Bergen to Myrdal, where we changed for the spectacular Flam railway. From Flam, we did a 2 and a half hour fjord cruise, before getting a bus to Voss. (The ride was a little hairy at times - it went down this massive mountain road with incredibly sharp turns, but the scenery again was amazing). We spent the night in beautiful Voss and most of the next day, before returning to Bergen.
We stayed our last two nights in Bergen, which is a wonderful port town. We found this great little pub - quite cheap (for Norway though, which for anywhere else would be expensive!) with amazing seafood, which we had both nights.
Photos will follow. Norway is just so amazingly beautiful and stunning that I haven't attempted description.
We are now at our last weekend in London. Last night, the Weber family plus Dave went to see We Will Rock You, and today we are headed (minus brother) down to Brick Lane for a curry. Dave and I head up to York tomorrow for a night, and next Friday we, along with J and Bec, hit Amsterdam!!!
I do owe this blog some more photos, but I am being lazy, so if you are interested in photos from Croatia you can follow the links on the side of the blog.
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Oh Sarajevo!
The following day we decided to do a walking tour to get ourselves better acquainted with this fascinating city. We discovered the sights and history of Sarajevo and its many churches and mosques - in Sarajevo, people of different religions lived in harmony for hundreds of years - and stopped at the place where the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, setting in train a series of events leading to the outbreak of the First World War. In the afternoon it was time for some more exploring, eating, drinking and souvenir-buying. Bosnia is so cheap!
Next day we did the Sarajevo Tunnel Tour, which was amazing. It was run by a guy not much older than ourselves, early thirties. He was fifteen when the war broke out in 1992, and joined the Bosnian army the following year. Before war was over he was shot twice, on one occasion spending four months in hospital. He is now a doctor, having finished a medical degree after the war. He drove us to the Tunnel Museum out near Sarajevo airport in his jeep, pointing out stuff along the way, such as the Merkale Market where a grenade exploded, killing 16 and wounding 197 Sarajevo citizens. Our route took us along Sniper Alley, which is a stretch of road leading into town where Serb snipers had prime position to pick off people as they ran along it. Reaching the museum, we first watched a 15 minute film of the seige and the story of the tunnel. 25 metres or so of the original tunnel still exists as it was, which we were able to walk along. The tunnel was constructed as a way of getting food and supplies into the besieged city, with the entrance in the basement of a house near the airport and the exit in another house in free territory. Listening to this guy talk about the war and the siege of Sarajevo from first hand experience was amazing. We were only about 10 or 11 when this was going on - I don't think I even knew where Bosnia was. To be in Sarajevo and hear all this and see first hand where it happened just brings it all home, how terrifying and tragic it was. 90% of people killed were civilians, including about 1000 children. The scars in Sarajevo are still raw. Although many builings have been repaired, what is striking is the makeshift cemetaries which are dotted around the outskirts of town. Many of the famous Sarajevo roses in the town have been covered over, as the memories for many citizens are just too painful.
That afternoon, on returning to town, we went to Cheers with Josh, a guy from our hostel, to watch Manchester United wrap up the Premier League title. In the evening, the three of us thought we would go out to watch Sarajevo FC play. Thanks to the tourist booklet giving an incorrect start time, we arrived at the stadium for the final ten minutes (at least we didn't pay to get in). So we went back , had a last meal of cevapcici, and watched the Eurovision final instead.
After Sarajevo we caught a bus back into Croatia to Zagreb, where we spent a pleasant afternoon and evening (really cheap and lovely pasta meal) before a train to Budapest (same hostel as last time and the owner recognised Dave!) and a flight up to Norway. We are currently in Bergen and at the end of our trip. Stayed tuned!
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Into Bosnia
The three hour bus ride from
Mostar, however, is still quite beautiful. The famous bridge, the Stari Most, which was destroyed in 1994, has been rebuilt and is a stunning sight. Strolling through the town that first night, we ran into Melissa and Matthew, a Kiwi couple we had been chatting to on the bus ride from
The following day we spent exploring and buying some souvenirs. Bosnia & Hercegovina is extremely cheap – a pint cost us the equivalent of a pound, and dinner later that night (a full sized trout for Dave and veal for me, plus drinks) cost 14 pounds. We were also lucky enough to witness a guy jump from the bridge, which apparently the young guys of the town do to get money from tourists, and we climbed the minaret of one of the mosques, ascending the (narrow) staircase for some great views of the town.
Our only regret is that we didn’t have the time to do the tour of some of the countryside that was offered at our hostel. It was run by the hostel owners’ brother, and our regrets only intensified when we met the guy and his big, friendly personality.
On Thursday, we jumped on another bus to
Friday, May 15, 2009
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Walls and Fjords
The second day we explored the Old Town properly. Our first task was to walk the city walls for some great views over the town and out to sea. We were amused by one older American tourist, who apparently thought I looked like a tour guide and kept asking me which way she should walk 'to get over there' (even though you are walking a wall - there is only one way.) Afterwards, we couldn't resist stopping for a drink at a charming bar built into the cliff wall, with some more amazing views. A couple of pizza slices for lunch and we made our way back to our rooms, emerging a little later bound for Lapad Bay, where we wandered the beach and had a lovely seafood pasta meal and an ice cream.
The following day we spent discovering that one of Europe's youngest nations is also one of its most visually stunning. Early in the morning, we picked up our hire car (Dave's first time driving in about two years) and made our leisurely way across the Croatian border and down the coast of Montenegro. First stop was the walled town of Kotor, nestled inside a stunning fjord. We slogged up to the fortress, high above the town almost at the top of the fjord. AMAZING is all I can say. The two and a half hours to get up and down were definately worth it - we were probably slowed a little though because one of us only had her thongs to climb in!
After a refresing drink and another ice cream, we hopped back in the car and followed the coast around to Budva, where we found another charming walled town and a big beach with...sand, not rocks! The water was absolutely beautiful. I do think I have been living in Britain too long though - Dubrovnik was around 28 degrees and I didn't think it was possible for it to get any hotter until we hit Montenegro. After a few hours - and a delicious late lunch - in Budva and exhausted after a big day, we drove back to Dubrovnik, where we witnessed a gorgeous sunset heading back down the Croatian coast.
The following morning was spent doing some laundry and chilling out at the Living Room cafe, before boarding our bus for Mostar in Bosnia & Hercegovina.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
'You Maybe Want Boat?'
Suitably refreshed, we headed out to check out the Old Town and the Diocletian’s Palace, before making a beeline for one of Split’s beaches, where we spent a while relaxing in the sun. Next up was lunch in the Old Town at a restaurant with a lovely little courtyard. The cuisine on the coast of Croatia is heavily influenced by Italy, so there is a lot of pizza and fresh pasta. Add to that fresh seafood and lots of gelati and we are not complaining!
In the afternoon, we climbed the hill at the far end of the city for some fantastic views, before heading back to the hostel for a cheap dinner of salami and cheese rolls and a few beers. Later we headed out for a drink in the beautifully lit Old Town with a couple of guys from the hostel.
The following day there were celebrations for the patron saint of Split. We had a quick breakfast, and watched a bit of the parade and other celebrations around town. Our passenger ferry departed for Hvar Island at 2, and passing through the produce markets on the way we couldn’t resist buying some local honey and fresh strawberries.
Upon arrival in Hvar Town, we were picked up and driven to the hostel/guesthouse we had booked. For 8 quid each per night we had a private room with ensuite, a kitchen we shared with two other rooms, our own fridge, and a balcony with amazing views over the island. The two days we spent on the island paradise of Hvar were extremely relaxing. We wandered the town, ate a fantastic meal (seafood pasta, wine, and a complimentary shot of grappa), had great homemade meals of bread, cheese, cold meats and our honey, and had a swim in the wonderfully clear and inviting (if a little chilly) Adriatic Sea.
Next stop was (sweltering) Dubrovnik for three nights...
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Beautiful Slovenia
The final day saw us up at the castle, perched atop a hill overlooking Ljubjana, where we discovered that the viewing tower was closed for renovations. Our next stop was the Tivoli park (which we discovered served as a hangout for the local Ljubljana teenage population) and the Contemporary History Museum, which covered the 20th century history of Slovenia. Then it was a matter of waiting for our night train.
We are currently in Split, Croatia, catching a ferry tomorrow to Hvar Island, where we will spend two very relaxing days before hitting Dubrovnik.
Monday, May 4, 2009
Sunday, May 3, 2009
I Just Can't Get Enough...Pierogi
The next morning we rose early and made our way out to Auschwitz-Birkenau, the trip you really have to do when you are out this way. After taking an hour on the bus to get out there, it took us, due to a combination of roadworks and a broken down car, three hours to get back. That night we ate at this great, and cheap, pierogi place we found off the main sqaure.
The last day we headed up Wawel Hill to wander the castle grounds, took a nice walk by the Vistula, and sat out and had some beers while waiting for our train in the beer tent at the fair that was on by the river.
We are now in pretty little Ljubljiana, Slovenia, which is a haven after the mania of Krakow. We arrived this afternoon having spent Saturday night and most of today on the train. We caught an overnight from Krakow and had to change in Vienna, where we endured an unexplained one hour delay. We are staying in a great place though - we have the entire second floor, kitchen included, to ourselves!
Hope everyone is well.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Ahh-choo!
At the moment we are in Warsaw, Poland, having arrived here at 10 to 6 this morning on an overnight bus which blasted us with unwanted air con all night. We dumped our bags at our hostel, and set off down the Royal Way to explore the Old Town, which was levelled during WWII by the Germans after the Warsaw Uprising and has been reconstructed. I swear, every school in Poland must be having an excursion today – there are large groups of children of varying ages EVERYWHERE. After, we took a walk over to the Jewish suburbs, where we visited the moving Pawiak Prison Museum, containing exhibits and photos of Polish Jews and their war experience under the Nazis, before a yummy lunch of Polish pirogi. Tomorrow we will jump on a train for the 3 hour journey to Krakow.
Pics to follow.
Monday, April 27, 2009
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Ballet and Borsch
Next up was the Church on Spilled Blood, the interior of which is amazing - covered in colourful mosaics. After stopping at a Russian bistro for a lunch of borsch and fried potatoes with garlic (yum), we made our way back to the hostel to freshen up before heading out again.
Suitably attired, we headed over to the Mariinsky Theatre to pick up our tickets for the classical ballet, Raymonda. After a pre show snack and drink, we took our (extremly good) seats. Wow!! The ballet was fantastic, and the costumes colourful. Afterwards we stopped off for coffee and cake before turning in.
The next day, after partaking of our hostels' free weekend breakfast of pancakes and Russian jam, we took off for the HI International Hostel, the meeting spot for Peter's Walking Tours. For the next 5 hours we traversed the city on foot, stopping for a couple of coffee breaks and a chat with our guide and fellow walkers. It was possibly the best walking tour I have ever done. We were shown parts of the city we never would have seen, we found out more about the history of St Petersburg, specific buildings and the well known residents that inhabited them, and we passed some seriously weird sights (the Museum of Radiation Hygiene anyone?) Afterwards, we made our way back to the hostel via the Bronze Horseman statue and St Isaac's Cathedral, stopping at the souvenir markets next to the Church on Spilled Blood, where some serious haggling was undertaken (that was Dave's responsibility.) We then made our way to the train station for our overnight train to Lithuania.
We are currently in Vilnius, getting ready to head out for some cheap beers and Lithuanian food. We have spent today exploring the pretty Old Town, and have visited the Museum of Genocide Victims, housed in the old KGB headquarters. The exhibits cover the Lithuanian experience under Soviet rule and the resistance movement, and on the lower level is a chilling KGB prison.
Until next time.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Blinis and Babushkas
We arrived here Tuesday morning via an overnight train from Riga in Latvia (where we filled ourselves up with perogi!) Navigating the surprisingly simple metro system to the hostel (surprisingly because it was all in Cyrillic - thanks Bec, your map saved us!) - we checked in and promptly headed off to Red Square, a mere 5 minute walk. Entering Red Square was pretty awesome - that first sight of St Basil's Cathedral is definately a big wow moment. We also saw the changing of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, where the eternal flame burns. We then paid a brief visit to the GUM department store, before heading back via the (still being renovated) Bolshoi Theatre and Arbat ul, where we had our first blinis. Later, we settled in to a dinner of pasta and (of course) vodka!
Our first order of business this morning was a visit to Lenin in his mausoleum. We joined the small queue and proceeded through the metal detectors into the tomb, observed by unsmiling Russian guards. It is dark and eerily silent, as you round the corners to where Lenin lays, perfectly embalmed, in his tomb. It seriously looks as if he is merely asleep, even though he died in 1924. It's kind of creepy.
Next stop was the Kremlin. We bought a ticket to the Kremlin itself and also the Armoury. The Armory was our first stop, and oh my god...the treasures within are indescribable. The collection is spread out over 9 rooms. The first contains various artifacts of gold and silver, from various centuries of Russian history. The second contains the treasures of the tsars, including the jewelled Easter eggs the tsar and tsarina traditionally exchanged as gifts at Easter. The third and fourth rooms contained armour and weaponry, the fifth gifts presented to the tsars by various countries ambassadors, and the sixth some coronation dresses of the empresses and various items of Russian dress in different periods. The last couple of rooms contain some royal thrones and crowns, and the final - almost the best of all - is lined by royal carriages and sledges. The most gorgeous include a Viennese and a German carriage, presented as gifts to the popular Empress Elisabeth.
Next up was the Kremlin itself. We crossed through the Trinity Gate Tower, and immediately came across the marble and concrete State Kremlin Palace and the Poteshny Palace, which housed the first Russian theatre. Then we entered Cathedral Square and were again left speechless by the golden domes of the Assumption Cathedral, the Church of the Deposition of the Robe, and the Ivan the Great Bell Tower. Exiting the square, we marvelled at the Tsar Cannon and Bell (with a great big chunk out of it), before taking a pleasant stroll in the Secret Garden.
Tomorrow our plans include Gorky Park and the adjoining Sculpture Park (a collection of Soviet statues joined by some contemporary works), followed by a visit to the Danilovsky Monastery, after which we are on an overnight train to St Petersburg.
Photos to follow a bit later on.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Row Your Boat
So I finish work in just under a week, after which I get to have a week relaxing and doing some sightseeing (yes there are still things to see) before we head off to Russia. We are also both keenly anticipating Dave’s final EVER shift at the pub – I can just about promise you that he will have never felt so free and relaxed as at 4pm on the 18th. Everything is slowly coming together re the trip, although there are still a few things to organise.
There have been a few things of note since our last update. One Wednesday night late March we found ourselves with free tickets to Ben Lee at the Indigo O2, so the 4 of us went out to the gig. I have had a few social things on at work, the last of which will be my leaving drinks on Thursday night, and of course we spent Tuesday 17th March at an Irish pub in honour of St Patricks Day (no trips to Dublin this year).
Last Sunday, the 4 of us took ourselves off to Cambridge, a delightful university town about 1 hour by train from London. After scoffing scones at the markets, we visited a few of the colleges, had wicked fun and heaps of laughs going for a punt on the river Backs, and watched the Cambridge/Oxford boat race at the hilariously named (for some people) Baron of Beef. Some photos below.
That’s about it for now from London, I dare say our next post will come to you live from Russia!!
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Anyone for Cream Tea?
Last Saturday we took ourselves down to She Bu Walkabout for two very important causes: a fundraiser for the victims of the Victorian bushfires and the birthday of one Rebecca Berrigan :). A very good night was had by all involved.
Not a lot more to report; we are both getting itchy feet waiting to finish up at work (4 weeks for me, 5 for Dave) and go off travelling. After our 5 week trip, we are planning a night or two in York up in the north of England, followed by a cheap flight to somewhere in Europe (possibly Italy) with friends for a final weekend before we are back to life down under.
Will update again before we go away.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Birthdays and beers!
Saturday we decided to pay a visit to London's big new Westfields. We picked up some great bargains, although were a little disappointed that a certain Portuguese chicken place was not among the numerous food options! (The Boost juice really hit the spot though!) Sunday we hit O'Neills for some lunch, before embarking on a (unsuccessful) mission to Brick Lane in search of some of those cheapo DVD's.
In other news, unfortunately living at the pub at Angel just didn’t stick, so we are now down here at Clapham South in a share house, living with 3 others. A little hard to get used to at first, but it’s working out OK and Clapham is a lovely area. We are here until we go away, so for about the next 7 weeks.
Will update again after our trip out to the Cotswolds on Sunday (fingers crossed for a nice day!) We have also entered the ballot for a 20/20 county cricket match at Lords (seeing we won’t make it to the Ashes after all) to be played the day after we return from Norway, and we should find out shortly if we have been successful.
Hope everyone is well.